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If you desire to do the task right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Without a borescope, you're working blind.


It is two separate tasks. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you need to remove copper fouling. Only then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning items out there. Here is a list of what I utilize. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They are available in.


Eliminate the brush, hose it down once again, and put it aside to dry. Rub out the cleansing rod with a paper towel. Take your spot rod, and put three solvent restore the bore. The last one should come out nearly white. When it does, follow with a dry patch.


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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. You will regret it.) If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done. If you see gobs and gouts and swellings and streaks, it's back to the J-B.


If you do not have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a couple of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue stains, back to the J-B.


Now, some basic notes. Some barrels copper-foul much worse than others. As a rule, the more you invest in a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. Do burglary procedures work? I question it. I have actually had one or 2 cases where a barrel suddenly started to group as I reached the end of the process, however I've had much more break-ins that made no distinction at all.


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They work, sometimes, however if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore but good, and because I'm at the age where I forget stuff, I hesitate to take the chance. Likewise, they're hell on stock surfaces. With a bolt-action, go simple on the Break-Free.


Take a hint from the military, whose lives depend upon their guns going bang. They want them spotless. And immaculate is a great way to go.


The actions to appropriately clean your rifle depend upon whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover basic field removing in this post. Due to the range of rifles, total disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this short article. This is the most essential step in the entire cleaning procedure.


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Using a cleaning tool, such as a energy brush or cleaning swabs, and remove any loose particles that may be found within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber. Heavy fouling can be removed with a light application of cleaner and permitting it to sit for a couple of minutes prior to brushing.


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One typical myth is that more is better when it comes to lubrication of your firearm.


Soak a couple spots in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Enable it to sit, and keep in mind that getting rid of copper can take a while.


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If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Bill Buckley Keep In Mind: There's a lot of talk about how these copper solvents can damage your bore.


What you don't desire is to let any ammonia solvent dry out therein. So when you're pleased that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of spots that have been damp with a regular cleaning solvent. Run 3 or four dry patches down the bore to get rid of any remaining solvent.


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